What is the Perfume Project?

This blog is a constantly evolving forum for thoughts on perfume, perfume-making, plants (especially orchids and flora of the Pacific Northwest) and life in general. It started out chronicling the adventures of Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes, established in July 2010, and has expanded in other directions. A big part of the blog is thinking about the ongoing process of learning and experimentation that leads to new perfumes, the exploration of perfumery materials, and the theory and practice of perfume making. I no longer post reviews of the perfumes that I sample, unless specifically requested to do so. To counter my inherent grumpy tendencies, I try to write about something I appreciate at least once a week. Once in a while I get up on my soapbox and write about things that aren't at all related to perfumery. I am grateful to all of you, the readers, who contribute to the blog by commenting and making this a truly interactive perfume project.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

MOLINARD VENTS ET MAREES


Back from an extended family visit, it's back to the blog! It feels good to be home and going through some of the many commercial fragrance samples that I've been neglecting. Here's a review of one of them:

Molinard Vents et Marées: I don’t remember where I got my sample, but this relatively new offering from Molinard doesn’t seem to be wildly popular. I can only find one other review, buried under the wrong heading on Fragrantica, which doesn’t even have Vents et Marées in their database.

This EdT starts out with a big dose of something “airy” in the calone-like family, clearly symbolizing “vents” (winds). It’s reassuring to know that Vents et Marées lives up to at least half of its name. However, the airy notes are accompanied by a mishmash of the same stomach-turning generic fruity-floral notes that characterize so many celebrity and downscale contemporary commercial fragrances, with just the slightest hint of coconut. For an EdT dabbed on in moderation, this is quite strong and long-lasting, with powerful sillage. I would definitely not want to spray it.

So where are the marées (tides)? I was expecting the airy notes, but was also expecting something that smelled like the sea. What a disappointment to find no trace of salt, ambergris, seaweed, driftwood, dead shellfish, petroleum spills, or anything one might associate with the tidal zone of the beach. Maybe the coconut is supposed to symbolize suntan lotion, but then why not amp it up so that it’s really noticeable and give it a name related to sunbathing?

I like the name and the concept, I just don’t like the way that Molinard executed what could have been a good idea.

No comments:

Post a Comment