
A week or so ago I read a thread on Fragrantica regarding the fact that so few DSH perfumes have been reviewed. This question jogged my memory of having ordered some samples last year, which I put away in one of my storage boxes. I realized that I had not smelled a single one yet. I dug them out so that I could do yet another sampling-reviewing fest in between the Madini one and the Soivohlé one.
According to her website, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz (DSH) is an indie perfumer based in Boulder, Colorado, where she operates a studio and boutique. The number of perfumes released under the DSH/Parfums des Beaux Arts/Essence label is mind-boggling. This overabundance of perfumes probably explains the paucity of reviews of any one of them, since every customer probably buys a different scent and only a few write and publish reviews. So far I’ve tested four of my samples, but not a single one of them is in the extensive list provided by the Fragrantica database.
What I’ve found so far is that I like every one of DSH’s creations. They’re well-made, strong enough without being overpowering, and reasonably long-lasting. The ones I’ve tried so far are all true to their names and very linear, ending up pretty much the same way they started out with only minor variations. Here are my reviews so far:
DSH Special Formula XThis was the first vial that I pulled out of my sample pack. I applied it without realizing that this is the “magic formula” that DSH uses to evaluate which perfumes customers “should” and “should not” wear. If an instruction sheet came with the sample, it’s long gone, so interpretation was entirely up to me. The formula seemed mostly floral, reminding me of lilacs, and it stayed that way throughout its development. My (obviously correct!) interpretation is that the lilac scent means that I should wear mostly strong oriental perfumes (in the sense of Arabian-style, not the pseudo-oriental Opium/Poison type), I love real sandalwood and attars, musks, spices, leather and incense in generous amounts. I love culinary and aromatic herbs, roses, violets/iris, gardenias, jasmine and orange blossoms in moderation; I like most woods and resins, patchouli, vanilla, coconut, and fruits, and I adore the smell of “church incense” and retsina. I can take or leave “green” notes and citrus, which is kind of a moot point since citrus usually doesn’t stick around for long anyway. I have major problems with anything containing Firmenich Teak, Iso E Super, Calone or other “marine” notes, and drugstore or designer perfumes that have massive, synthetic-smelling sillage. I’m not crazy about anything that smells like soap, lily of the valley, or strong aldehydes. That only starts to cover my likes and dislikes, but it provides some general principles of what I like to wear. How these preferences are related to Special Formula X is anybody’s guess, since I don’t possess the magic key, but they work for me.
DSH Au LaitThe second sample that I tried, Au Lait, starts out smelling like a slightly gourmand vanilla and coconut, but the coconut fades fairly quickly leaving a lovely, fluffy vanilla musk. This is a comfort scent if ever there was one. The sillage is moderate, and longevity is excellent, hanging around for the better part of a day with very little change after the first coconut-tinged half hour. Thankfully there’s nothing milk-like in the scent. It’s the sort of thing that I could put into my box of default perfumes, the ones that I wear whenever I don’t want to have to think about choosing.
DSH Cardamom and KyphiThis starts out smelling just like freshly crushed cardamom seeds - a truly delicious scent that reminds me of grinding spices for chai. After the initial cardamom blast, what I smell is sweet and spicy, the cardamom accompanied by cinnamon and some resins, probably a little calamus, and dried fruits. Spicy but not too sweet and not at all floral, this perfume gets an enthusiastic thumbs-up from me. Kudos to DSH for having the guts to put so much cardamom in this perfume.
DSH AshramAshram starts out smelling exactly like nag champa incense, which I happen to like, so that’s OK with me. About an hour into the drydown it mellows and sweetens with a light floral note, which I suppose is champaca, as well as a warm ambery base. This is a scent that will make all of the headshop-phobic people out there run screaming in the opposite direction. I, on the other hand, find it familiar and pleasant, a different sort of non-gourmand comfort scent.