As part of my ongoing self-education, every day I try to sample at least one perfume made by someone else. My regular venue for posting reviews is Fragrantica, but I use this blog to occasionally post reviews of fragrances that aren’t listed there. This strategy has resulted in several series of reviews, and more coming up, but sometimes there’s the odd one out. Here are three in that category. All of them appear to be in production, but the only one generally available from US retailers seems to be Molinard M. The others can be obtained as samples or decants from TPC, and probably other similar sources.
Nelly Rodi No. 9 Fleur d’Oranger
On first sniff, this EdP smells exactly like its name, straight orange blossoms. However, after the initial sweet, floral blast, a sharp note develops, possibly some citrus peel oil and/or petitgrain. It’s supposed to contain cardamom, but I really don’t smell it. For the first half hour the sillage produces the illusion of perfect, fresh orange blossoms with hints of the orange tree’s leaves mixed in. Then as it dries down, what I smell is mostly aurantiol mixed with some vanilla. It’s a nice, warm scent once it reaches this point. Overall, this is a pleasant fragrance with strong sillage initially, but lasting only 4-5 hours. The first 30 minutes are among the best renditions of orange blossoms that I’ve smelled. If you love orange flowers and don’t want a perfume that lasts all day, this would be worth a try.
Molinard M de Molinard
Starts out a little soapy and floral, a little green, with a top note of bitter galbanum. M is a sharp, old-fashioned chypre-type perfume, not at all sweet. In the main phase, it’s mostly floral and green, not really my style, but certainly wearable. It has lots of sillage, and lasts for 6-8 hours, gradually trailing off into a weak woody-musky base that retains traces of the green flowers. Nice if you like that sort of thing.
Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande
This starts out as a strong, but realistic lavender scent embellished with some other culinary herbs and spices, sage being one of the prominent ones. Smelling it makes me think of chopping sage and rosemary, preparing a Thanksgiving dinner. I sometimes add lavender to spice up my cooking, so all of these notes remind me of being in the kitchen. However, just when I think it’s going to be nothing but an herb-flavored meal, the incense starts kicking in. A stark, beautiful incense that combines perfectly with the lavender. All too soon the incense vanishes, and the lavender remains, becoming progressively sweeter until it almost seems candied. I’m normally not a fan of lavender in perfume, but here it’s gorgeous, done just right. I like the way it develops, moving into incense, and back to a different take on lavender. Encens et Lavande is my fgavorite of the three, and the only one that I would consider owning in a quantity larger than a sample.
[orange flower photo from Wikimedia]
Vetyver 46 by Mark Buxton for Le Labo 2006
9 hours ago