What is the Perfume Project?

This blog is a constantly evolving forum for thoughts on perfume, perfume-making, plants (especially orchids and flora of the Pacific Northwest) and life in general. It started out chronicling the adventures of Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes, established in July 2010, and has expanded in other directions. A big part of the blog is thinking about the ongoing process of learning and experimentation that leads to new perfumes, the exploration of perfumery materials, and the theory and practice of perfume making. I no longer post reviews of the perfumes that I sample, unless specifically requested to do so. To counter my inherent grumpy tendencies, I try to write about something I appreciate at least once a week. Once in a while I get up on my soapbox and write about things that aren't at all related to perfumery. I am grateful to all of you, the readers, who contribute to the blog by commenting and making this a truly interactive perfume project.

Monday, January 14, 2013

M. MICALLEF YLANG IN GOLD


Just when I thought I’d finished reviewing the Micallef vanilla series, here comes another one that fits perfectly with the others. Ylang in Gold starts out as a soft, peachy-vanilla with faint floral notes on top, but ylang-ylang does not dominate in any way. It’s hard to pick out any of the listed notes other than vanilla because the whole blends together so smoothly into a super-feminine, cushy-soft, quasi-gourmand ensemble.

As it dries down, there emerges a baked vanilla note that reminds me of a fortune cookie, along with florals that sharpen up a bit to showcase the lily-of the-valley and magnolia notes that are reportedly part of the mix.

Strength and sillage are in the moderate range, so there’s no danger of getting blasted by screechy florals. The scent is pretty and mild enough that it should be welcome in just about any venue, in just about any circumstances. This may sound like damning with faint praise, but it’s not. Ylang in Gold is not only eminently wearable, it's lovely. Well done!

[Photos courtesy of M. Micallef/Hypoluxe. Review based on a mini bottle kindly provided by M. Micallef]

3 comments:

  1. I really liked this one when I tried it, too. Ylang is a trickier note to use than one might think, as it easily sways to either rubbery or cloying. But in this perfume, it's gorgeous. And weirdly, I'd been experimenting with gold mica in one of my perfumes ("Argonaut"- a ginger cologne) for about 6 months before this one came out with the same ingredient. There's no way she could have ever seen Argonaut, so obviously, great minds think alike! ;-)

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    1. Marla, you're right that ylang is a tricky note to use. The issue is further complicated by all of the different types that are out there. The gold mica is yet another example of synchronicity at work!

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  2. Yes, the phases of distillation of ylang ylang are so different. At first, I preferrred the most ethereal, but now I like "ylang complete" in all its rubbery, indolic glory!

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