For this week’s Materials Wednesday, the green parade
continues with the old standby, violet leaf absolute. This is a
solvent-extracted absolute from the leaves of the common violet, Viola odorata,
which grows as a weed in my yard and garden, propagating itself lavishly by
both seeds and runners. In fact, the violets are in full bloom right now. The
flower scent isn’t as strong as that of their larger cousins, the pansies
(Viola tricolor) or domesticated violas, which are one of the winter garden
standbys here. I imagine the leaves of any species or hybrid could be used to
make “violet leaf absolute”, but it’s always listed as Viola odorata.
The leaves of Viola odorata are dark green in color, toward the
blue side of green, tinged with purple-red. Violet leaf absolute is a viscous,
yellow-green semi-liquid that at first has a penetrating green-vegetation
smell. It’s heavier and darker than tomato leaf absolute, with an earthy,
minerally note that’s quite unique. To me it’s evocative of geologically ancient places in
cold, foggy, northern parts of the world, places that have not yet driven out the fairies, gnomes, and invisible ancient spirits of the land. If I wanted to make a perfume that
symbolized the old stone ruins of druid burial grounds in Ireland, it would be
heavy on violet leaf.
As the absolute dries down, the earthy, minerally, damp-dusty,
slightly metallic notes gain strength. Throughout, there’s the slightest hint
of violet flower scent. It’s a top to mid note, lasting for about 5-6 days on
paper. By the end, the violet flower note is subtly perceptible, so it seems to
last longer than the greener components.
I am looking forward to using violet leaf absolute in a new composition that I’m working on.
I am looking forward to using violet leaf absolute in a new composition that I’m working on.
[This time, all photos are mine.]
Hi Ellen,
ReplyDeleteYes, these violets are everywhere, even growing from between the boards on the back deck! Yikes! I guess it is time for a new deck.
Every Spring I am reminded of some verses from a poem (Apparitions?) by Robert Browning:
"Such a starved bank of moss
Till, that May-morn,
Blue ran the flash across:
Violets were born!"
Sky - what a scowl of cloud
Till, near and far,
Ray on ray split the shroud:
Splendid, a star!..."
I was such a romantic child :)
Now the violets are blooming in April! It must be global warming.
Azar xx
Azar, the violets get in the cracks of our deck, too, the cracks in the cement walkway, and everywhere. The good thing is that they're a lot smaller than the bamboo, which is coming up *everywhere*. What a cool poem! I think our violets always have their big spring bloom in March and April, but they're probably later in Robert Browning's part of the world. Besides, "May-morn" sounds better than "April-morn", or even "March-morn".
DeleteI agree. March-morn just doesn't make it, despite the alliteration. Wow! Your bamboo are up? We have high hopes for ours this year.
DeleteAnd I am looking forward to this new fragrance with the violet leaf!
oh gosh, i've palpitations right now after reading that. I hope there is no regulations about this, like for oakmoss.
ReplyDeleteStephen Jones by Comme Des Garçons is the only perfume where i smell almost pure violet leaf absolute. There is nothing about soft violet...and it can be quite disturbing when the almost metallic aspect is so much accentuated.
Frederic, as far as I know, there are no restrictions on violet leaf absolute. I can definitely see how the metallic aspect of violet leaf could be disturbing.
DeleteBy funny coincidence, I've been working with violet leaf (I have about 5ml left)this entire week as part of a lindenblossom cologne I'm working on. I find violet leaf utterly addictive, yum! There was a perfume called "The Unicorn Spell" many years ago which featured it- it was like Green Heaven. :-)
ReplyDeleteThis is a happy coincidence! Violet leaf is great, and I'm just discovering its possibilities. We should exchange samples!
DeleteI'd love to do that. Your take on various notes is always wonderful to experience!
DeleteMarla, that's great! As soon as I have a trial version, I'll send it.
DeleteI think violet leaf is one of the components of my favorite men's fragrances Fahrenheit (vintage) which I wear myself. Interested to see what you do with it.
ReplyDeleteAnne, I used to like Fahrenheit, but I think they reformulated it (maybe without the violet leaf) and it doesn't smell as good now.
DeleteI love violet leaf abs. I have a tiny bit still. It's the ultimate scent that makes me think of gardening; getting down and weeding in the shade.
ReplyDeleteLaurie, violet leaf absolute does, indeed, have a "weeding in the shade" feel to it. The sat two weeks I've been weeding out literally thousands of baby big leaf maple trees that are growing in places where they shouldn't! Weeding is definitely on my mind right now.
ReplyDelete