What is the Perfume Project?

This blog is a constantly evolving forum for thoughts on perfume, perfume-making, plants (especially orchids and flora of the Pacific Northwest) and life in general. It started out chronicling the adventures of Olympic Orchids Perfumes, established in July 2010, and has expanded in other directions. A big part of the blog is thinking about the ongoing process of learning and experimentation that leads to new perfumes, the exploration of perfumery materials, the theory and practice of perfume making, the challenges of marketing perfumes and other fragrance products, and random observations on philosophy and society. Spam comments will be marked as such and deleted; any comments that go beyond the boundaries of civil discourse will also be deleted. I am grateful to all of you, the readers, who contribute to the blog by commenting and making this a truly interactive perfume project.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

THE FRAGRANT COCKLESHELL: SERENDIPITY STRIKES AGAIN


Encyclia radiata (or Prostechea radiata, as it’s now called) is one tough orchid plant. Last fall my plant was attacked by some insect cooties that nearly did it in. Once I discovered the problem, I treated the plant to get rid of the pests, a violent treatment that was designed to kill or cure. The poor plant was doused with nasty chemicals, painted with neem oil, and put outside in temperatures that hovered somewhere around freezing. During the coldest part of the winter, it sat in quarantine in the garage with no water or light for several months. In early March it went outside again, once more in cold temperatures. Then one day it started putting out flower buds.

The plant is now healthy, growing profusely, and blooming. It's in a place of honor on the kitchen counter, sporting a spray of lovely greenish-white flowers with purple-striped lips shaped like scallop shells, pumping out its amazing perfume. It’s a rich, vanilla-based fragrance with heaps of cinnamon, orange-y citrus, and a bit of indole beneath it all. Mostly, though, it’s a cinnamon-flavored dessert with some odd notes that are hard to describe because they’re unique.

As soon as as I smelled it, I considered making a perfume to honor this wonderful little plant. I’m thinking I’d call it Flor Conchita (little shell flower), which is its common name in Mexico, where it grows wild.

I never cease to be amazed by all of the serendipitous coincidences in perfume making and perfume sampling. The very day that my Conchita was blooming - I tried an extremely rare vintage Guerlain called Dawamesk, which contains indolic flowers and vanilla, and dries down to a base with a significant cinnamon note. I was standing in the kitchen when I smelled something that I thought was an unusually strong current of Dawamesk sillage, but it was not coming from my arm. I quickly traced it to the little orchid plant on the counter. I sniffed back and forth between my arm and the flowers, and the more I sniffed, the more I realized that the perfume and the orchid smelled shockingly similar. I’m blown away by the similarity between the scent of Encyclia radiata flowers and Guerlain Dawamesk. It’s almost enough to make me believe in the Jungian idea of synchronicity. It’s certainly enough to make me think that a perfume inspired by the orchid would pretty much amount to a remake of Dawamesk. Maybe that wouldn’t be such a bad thing.

6 comments:

  1. Hello Doc Elly -

    Of course a remake of Dawamesk wouldn't be a bad thing! Any fragrance that closely resembles a vintage Guerlain would be greatly appreciated. And this particular fragrance sounds lovely. Have you had a chance to sample "Sous le Vent" - another beautiful and largely forgotten classic? And while you are at it, how about a rendition of Tuvache's Jungle Gardenia?
    Also, thanks for the pictures of your magnificent orchids; the one pictured above is outstanding with the greenish body and purple stripes - absolutely amazing.

    Best Wishes,

    Robert

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  2. Robert, I have not sampled Sous le Vent, nor have I sampled Jungle Gardenia. I must try both of these! If I did make an Encyclia radiata type perfume, it would be more of a reinterpretation of Dawamesk rather than a remake, but would definitely be very similar.

    I'm glad you like the orchid pictures. I really enjoy photographing them as they bloom.

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    Replies
    1. I am an Orchid fan from El Salvador, in Central America, I love the fragrance of encyclia radiate, I grow this plant outdoor and it gave me a beautiful aroma in the morning, I can send you some picture if you wish.

      Regards

      Ernesto Galeano

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    2. I am an Orchid fan from El Salvador, in Central America, I love the fragrance of encyclia radiate, I grow this plant outdoor and it gave me a beautiful aroma in the morning, I can send you some picture if you wish.

      Regards

      Ernesto Galeano

      Delete
  3. Hello Ellen,

    I like Robert's suggestion for a rendition of Tuvache's Jungle Gardenia. I also vote for Encyclia radiata! Regarding orchid rendition/replica fragrances: When we talked about the Sharri Baby fragrance I realized that I referred to the new "Sweet Fragrance" cultivar name. I actually prefer the plain old Sharri Baby. In the "Sweet Fragrance" version I detect a cherry/almond aspect that is very different from the original hybrid. Also, awhile ago I remember reading on your blog about the Shishedo "Message from Orchids" Golden Cattleya fragrance. I understand that other orchid scents were replicated in this "Message from Orchids" series. Have you tried any of the others? If so would you recommend them?

    Gail

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  4. Hi again Ellen,

    Here is a comment on synchronicity but off the topic of scent. In the 1980's I was involved with set design and music for what we used to call "experimental theatre". At the time many of us in different disciplines (around the world) were inspired by the organic shapes and movements of various cnidarians and pellagic invertebrates, jelly fish in particular. All of this interest seemed to surface at the same time with no personal contact and very limited internet communication between the artists and musicians. This fascination was kind of a throw back, I suppose, to French Symbolism and Rodenbach, etc. Now it seems the natural world has come back with an answer to our jellyfish obsessions of the 80's as the giant jellyfish invade Japanese waters and the Florida beaches are covered with jellies.

    Gail

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