What is the Perfume Project?

This blog is a constantly evolving forum for thoughts on perfume, perfume-making, plants (especially orchids and flora of the Pacific Northwest) and life in general. It started out chronicling the adventures of Olympic Orchids Perfumes, established in July 2010, and has expanded in other directions. A big part of the blog is thinking about the ongoing process of learning and experimentation that leads to new perfumes, the exploration of perfumery materials, the theory and practice of perfume making, the challenges of marketing perfumes and other fragrance products, and random observations on philosophy and society. Spam comments will be marked as such and deleted; any comments that go beyond the boundaries of civil discourse will also be deleted. I am grateful to all of you, the readers, who contribute to the blog by commenting and making this a truly interactive perfume project.

Showing posts with label violet leaf absolute. Show all posts
Showing posts with label violet leaf absolute. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

VIOLET LEAF ABSOLUTE: THE ULTIMATE GREEN

For this week’s Materials Wednesday, the green parade continues with the old standby, violet leaf absolute. This is a solvent-extracted absolute from the leaves of the common violet, Viola odorata, which grows as a weed in my yard and garden, propagating itself lavishly by both seeds and runners. In fact, the violets are in full bloom right now. The flower scent isn’t as strong as that of their larger cousins, the pansies (Viola tricolor) or domesticated violas, which are one of the winter garden standbys here. I imagine the leaves of any species or hybrid could be used to make “violet leaf absolute”, but it’s always listed as Viola odorata.

The leaves of Viola odorata are dark green in color, toward the blue side of green, tinged with purple-red. Violet leaf absolute is a viscous, yellow-green semi-liquid that at first has a penetrating green-vegetation smell. It’s heavier and darker than tomato leaf absolute, with an earthy, minerally note that’s quite unique. To me it’s evocative of geologically ancient places in cold, foggy, northern parts of the world, places that have not yet driven out the fairies, gnomes, and invisible ancient spirits of the land. If I wanted to make a perfume that symbolized the old stone ruins of druid burial grounds in Ireland, it would be heavy on violet leaf.

As the absolute dries down, the earthy, minerally, damp-dusty, slightly metallic notes gain strength. Throughout, there’s the slightest hint of violet flower scent. It’s a top to mid note, lasting for about 5-6 days on paper. By the end, the violet flower note is subtly perceptible, so it seems to last longer than the greener components.

I am looking forward to using violet leaf absolute in a new composition that I’m working on.

[This time, all photos are mine.]