A couple of days ago I read an interesting blog post by
Undina, entitled, “A Wish List for the Perfume Industry
”, a point-by point list of things she'd like to see happen. Although I'm certainly
not part of the mass-market "industry", I read it and agree with
most of what she wrote, but have my own take on some of her points.
1. There’s a need for more samples. I agree that every
perfume manufacturer should provide samples, but as I mentioned in a previous post
, I suspect that most people don't realize how expensive and
labor-intensive it is to produce samples by hand. I don't know about
mass-producing them by machine, but it probably isn't that much cheaper than
mass-producing bottles. Knowing what I know about sample production, I
personally don't mind paying for them, and don't expect the cost to be deducted
from any bottle purchases I may ultimately make.
2. There’s a need for more smaller size bottles. I wholeheartedly
agree with this, and think most indie perfumers do tend to provide smaller
sizes than their mass-market colleagues.
Many also provide a range of
sizes, as I do. As a consumer, I would never buy a bottle larger than 30 ml,
and prefer to just buy samples or "official" mini sizes of a few ml,
provided they're in bottles that don't leak or allow for evaporation, a common
problem with mass-market minis.
3. Warnings about reformulation or discontinuation. So far
I've not had to reformulate anything, but if I did, I would certainly let
people know that the fragrance was going to be reformulated, or that it would
simply be discontinued, which is probably a better strategy than reformulation that changes the very nature of the fragrance. Reformulation should be announced before supplies run out, so that
customers can stock up on their favorite formula. I did discontinue one
fragrance because I wasn’t particularly fond of it, but still keep some on hand
for anyone who knows about it and wants to order it.
4. Including the production year on the label. I think this is
a good idea, not so much because perfumes have an expiration date like milk, produce, or baked goods do, but because natural materials vary from year to year, just
as wine vintages do. For example, it might be that the version of a given fragrance
using the 2011 harvest of olibanum resin from Somalia will be better than the
version using the 2012 harvest. For most customers, such subtleties probably
wouldn’t matter, but for others they might. I think I’ll start doing this in
5. Reissuing discontinued perfumes as special editions. In
theory, this might be a good idea, but the reality is that perfumes are often
discontinued because a material is no longer available or is restricted, so it
may not always be possible to re-issue them in their original form. It would
make no sense to re-issue them in a reformulation. If the only reason for
discontinuing the perfume is cost of materials, poor sales, or an arbitrary
decision, then this would be a viable strategy if people are willing to pay for the original formula.
6. Too many new releases. The issue of multiple new releases
is one that bothers me quite a bit. Too many new mass-market releases are just
flankers or more of the same old stuff, for no reason other than to keep the
brand in the public eye. We're all caught up in the same new-release-inflation
game, just to keep our brand in the spotlight. For an indie perfumer like me,
creating new (and better) perfumes is a good part of the fun, and the reason we got into the business in the first place, but I realize
that too many new releases can get overwhelming for those who try to follow the
perfume industry large and/or small. The issue of new releases is one that
seems to have no good solution. I'd be interested to hear from readers how many new releases you like to see per year from any one brand. Do you think that when a new fragrance is released, an old one should be discontinued to keep the number of offerings somewhat constant?
7. Packaging, or as Undina put it, “wasting a beautiful
bottle on a mediocre perfume or undermining a beautiful perfume with an ugly
bottle”. This is all very well, except for the fact that what is beautiful or
ugly lies mostly in the eye of the beholder. This applies to both visual design
and perfume. For my own packaging, I prefer simplicity, choosing to spend money
on quality materials rather than fancy packaging, but I know that for some people the appearance of the bottle is very important.
8. Trendy perfume notes. Undina’s main complaint is that she
doesn’t like oud, and I'm sure that many people agree with her. However, if
those people wait, a new trendy material will come along. Maybe they'll like it better. It’s just the cycles
of fashion, and the fact that when new materials become readily available, most
perfumers will want to try them and jump on the bandwagon for a while. I actually sometimes
wear oud straight (the real thing – guilty pleasure, I know), and enjoy it very
much. At the same time that genuine, unadulterated oud oil has practically
become extinct, many good synthetic reconstitutions have become available, and these are almost certainly what is used in virtually all perfumes that are in the non-astronomical price range. In
my opinion, many of these synthetic ouds are very nice, and can be useful in
formulating perfumes, so I don’t hesitate to use them, trendy or not. A large
percentage of the perfumes in existence use bergamot, but as far as I know, no
one complains about it being overused, so I’m not sure why oud gets such a bad
rap. Whether or not you like oud is simply a matter of personal taste, just as whether or not you like citrus top notes, which are much more common
than oud bases.
What would you add to the wish list? Curious perfumers want to know.