From elemi, the obvious place to go is frankincense. I wrote
a post on frankincense back in 2010 when I started this blog, but it wouldn’t
hurt to do an update. Frankincense, also known as olibanum, is another resin
that comes from trees in the family Buseraceae, in this case Boswellia. The
resins used in incense and perfumery come from several different species, each with its own aroma profile, and each species yielding a slightly different scent depending on origin.
Boswellia is native throughout arid landscapes in India, North Africa, and the
Arabian Gulf regions.
The trees themselves are, to me, very attractive,
typically with gnarled trunks covered with smooth bark that peels as the tree
grows, and sparse, lacy leaves. Boswellia trees are deciduous, losing their
leaves during times of stress, typically during the dry season. Resin is
obtained by making shallow cuts in the bark of the tree and harvesting the
dried resin. Oil is obtained by distillation, although the raw resin can also
be tinctured.
I am growing seedlings of several different Boswellia
species: dioscoridis, neglecta, and carteri. Given my propensity to under-water
or just forget to water, they seem to do well in my hands. The carteri is the
largest one, and has kept its leaves this summer. The other two have lost
theirs because they’re small and in a very hot, dry location. They’ve done this
before, so I know they’ll perk up and grow when summer is over.
Frankincense is one of those materials that I’m worried
about. Although it’s listed as “not threatened”, the trees can only produce so
much, and it’s likely that their habitat is diminishing due to the same sort of
reckless human activities that are destroying nature everywhere. Boswellia
seedlings are eaten by domestic animals, trees are burned by fire, they are cut
down to clear land or to use for firewood or lumber and, of course,
over-harvesting of resin weakens trees. I keep my stash of resin and oil
against the day when these things may no longer be available, or when the price
has risen because supply cannot keep up with demand.
Boswellia is a traditional Ayurvedic medicine reputed to
have strong anti-inflammatory properties as well as anti-microbial, anti-fungal
and insect-repellant properties, yet another example of trees producing
compounds that help keep them healthy and infection-free.
The species that produces the “lightest” and greenest oil is
B serrata, which grows in India. This oil is closer to the citrusy-green scent
of elemi than the others, and very much in the direction of pine needles. The
primary constituent is alpha-pinene (over 70%!), with small amounts of
limonene, verbenol, pinocarveol, myrcene, borneol, para-cymene, and other trace
molecules. I used Boswellia serrata oil in Gujarat along with B carteri to
provide a light incense note to go with the smoke element of the scent.
Boswellia carteri is the most common species used for the
production of resin and oil. The scent is very different from that of B
serrata, much richer and more resinous. Alpha pinene makes up less than half of
B carteri oil, the main constituents being diterpenes whose long chemical names
you really don’t want to see, although if you’re really curious you can view
them here, and octyl actetate, which has a distinctive fruity smell. I have used
Boswellia carteri oil in a number of my perfumes, most notably the Devil Scent
series, where it was used to give a vague impression of burning incense. I also
use it, along with natural sandalwood oil, in my Body Balm.
This is getting long, so the post on the different types of
Boswellia will probably be continued next week.
Leave a comment about what type of frankincense you like, or
what frankincense-containing perfume(s) you like and be entered in a drawing to
win a 5-ml travel spray of the Devil Scent of your choice plus some
extras.
[All images are from Wikimedia]
Not being a perfumer, organic chemist, or botanist, I couldn't help but feel a bit surprised at the different types of frankincense, and the properties of each as you listed them. Honestly, my favorite scent containing it is the incense used in at Easter and at Midnight Mass at Christmas, when I was a little girl. Nothing else seems to capture that scent. As the resin is so expensive, it's no wonder.
ReplyDeleteMothermorgan, frankincense resin burned as incense is a wonderful scent! You're entered in the drawing.
DeleteMy favorite frankincense containing perfume is Alkemia's Deseo Ardiente. I love pretty much all Frankincense, its the only oil besides Patchouli that I really have a strong attraction to.
ReplyDeleteDixie, I haven't tried Deseo Ardiente, but it sounds good! You're entered in the drawing.
DeleteI buy a couple perfumes from Solstice Scents called Inquister and Conjure, both containing frankincense. They are very beloved.
ReplyDeleteThere is a perfume oil from Carnival Wax called Gypsy which I'm addicted to. It does not contain any frankincense, however it does contain dragon's blood resin, which I wonder if that is similar to frankincense in how it is obtained?
Thanks for sharing, I find it quite interesting to find out how the perfumes we love are made.
Harley, Dragon's blood resin is obtained in much the same way as frankincense, by making cuts in the trunk of a tree. I'll do a whole post on dragon's blood as part of this series. You're entered in the drawing.
Deletewe have already talked about it, I find that in the composition of perfume incense is extraordinary with fruity or floral notes. Where a fruit note is often a cloying/boring smell , mixed with incense it gives that cool/real impression as if we had just bitten into it.
ReplyDeleteAmong the scents that revolve solely around the incense I think the best(i mean by that exactly like in a perfect church) is Avignon from Comme Des Garçons ... even if I never had the courage to wear it.
Frederic, I also love Avignon. I actually have a decant and wear it from time to time. You're in the drawing!
DeleteI didn't realize that there were three different species used for the production of resin and oil! My favorite perfume containing frankincense is Winter Kitty (by For Strange Women, on Etsy). I also really love L'Artisan's Timbuktu. Thanks for posting about frankincense again!
ReplyDeleteCQ, A number of different species are used for incense and oil. I also love Timbuktu, but have not tried (or even heard of) Winter Kitty. You're in the drawing!
DeleteThank you for this post! One of my favorite scents with Olibanum is Zola Jesus Taiga.
ReplyDeletePola, I have not tried Zola Jesus Taiga. You're in the drawing!
DeleteI've been told that 'Nu' is mainly olibanum, and I LOVE that scent. When I wear it I cannot stop sniffing at my wrists.
ReplyDeleteLaurie, olibanum has that effect - you just can't stop sniffing it! You're in the drawing!
ReplyDeleteMy favorite frankincense perfume is Tauer's Incense Extreme with CDG Avignon a close second.
ReplyDeleteTriniti, you're in the drawing.
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