What is the Perfume Project?

This blog is a constantly evolving forum for thoughts on perfume, perfume-making, plants (especially orchids and flora of the Pacific Northwest) and life in general. It started out chronicling the adventures of Olympic Orchids Perfumes, established in July 2010, and has expanded in other directions. A big part of the blog is thinking about the ongoing process of learning and experimentation that leads to new perfumes, the exploration of perfumery materials, the theory and practice of perfume making, the challenges of marketing perfumes and other fragrance products, and random observations on philosophy and society. Spam comments will be marked as such and deleted; any comments that go beyond the boundaries of civil discourse will also be deleted. I am grateful to all of you, the readers, who contribute to the blog by commenting and making this a truly interactive perfume project.

Thursday, August 7, 2014

BACK ONLINE WITH WOOLLY THYME


Finally I’m back online after a long and widespread outage of Frontier, who is our DSL provider. The most frustrating thing of all was that when the service first went down Michael and I each spent over an hour on the phone with the Frontier folks, who first tried to blame it on the browsers that we were using (how can you use a browser if you’re not connected to the internet?) and then blamed it on our modem. The only bright spot in the whole story is that Frontier actually has real people that answer the phone, never mind that they have no clue that the problem is a major outage in their network, not our software or equipment. Anyway, this morning things finally seem back to normal.

For today, I’ll just kick back and say that I'm not sure why this white cyclamen is blooming in August, or even where it came from, but it's cute. The leaves in the left of the photo are from the tuberose plants, which are gradually getting up to blooming size. This is their second year, so maybe by next year, when they don't get stepped all over by painters ... one can always hope. 

Anyway, this is really a post about another fragrant surprise in the garden, discovered during a desperate attempt to manage the out-of-control vegetation growing on the terraced rockery at the back of our property.  It’s a slope of about 20-35 degrees or more depending on where you look, apparently produced when the contractor took away part of a hillside to level the space where our house was built. I’ve been adding rocks to it gradually, and a few years ago when the local water company destroyed part of our driveway trying to find a leaking water main, I built terraces with all of the broken concrete pieces, which have gradually weathered to somewhat match the stones that were there already. In the back there was a jungle-like overgrowth of strawberry trees (Arbutus unedo), rhododendrons, and English ivy that had spilled over from the neighbor’s yard. The photo was taken after the clearing of the jungle. 

Lower down on the terrace everything was overgrown with tall grass, which is dry and brown this time of year. Eventually I’d like to eradicate the grass and replace it with various herbs and flowers, but for now it can be controlled with a weed-eater. While cutting the grass on the lowest terrace, I suddenly smelled a wonderful fragrance, like a mixture of lavender, thyme, marjoram, and something vaguely floral. It was coming from a mat of little fuzzy leaves formed by a small plants that I’d put there years ago and forgotten about – woolly thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus).

All of the descriptions of woolly thyme say that it has little or no scent, but this plant does. What’s especially interesting is that it seems to have a lot more fragrance in the evening than at other times. It was just serendipitous that I discovered it while working, because I like to work outside in the garden in the evening. During the day, while the sun is shining on it, it seems to have very little scent. It’s not simply a matter of temperature or humidity bringing out the scent because even if I crush the leaves the scent is much less during the day than in the evening. I know flowers adjust their fragrance according to time of day, so I’m not surprised to find that herbs do this, too. If I had enough woolly thyme to distill, I would want to pick it in the evening.

[All photos are mine]

Sunday, August 3, 2014

THE PLP PROJECT


In case you’re not familiar with the Peace-Love-Perfume Facebook group, it is a very active community of over 600 perfume lovers, presided over by Goodsmella Carlos Powell. If you want to join PLP, you must be sponsored by a current member. This month they’re celebrating their third anniversary by sponsoring a huge one-a-day giveaway, including a bottle of one of my perfumes, and have sent out a challenge to perfumers to create a 3rd anniversary celebration trio of fragrances based on the peace-love-perfume theme. 

I don't know how many will respond, but how could I not accept the challenge? I’ve just finished formulating the initial drafts of each fragrance, and have reached the stage of tweaking proportions and adding little bits of modifiers as I test them. The general theme is a 70s peace-love-and-flower-child feeling, which is probably the most obvious and conventional approach possible, but that’s not a bad thing given the limited time I’ve had to work on the project.

What I’ve done is create three complementary perfumes that can be worn alone or together.

Peace represents the base, the serious oldest child, with emphasis on incense, vetiver, benzoin, and patchouli. It’s not a heavy, head-shop mix, and it’s not oud, in case anyone was afraid of that. Instead, it’s a thin wisp of incense smoke scented with transparent patchouli and a bit of real sandalwood. It’s light, something to quietly meditate on.

Love is the middle flower child, earthy and colorful. Sandalwood echoes the base of Peace, but with added vanilla, musk, and a blue lotus accord. The first draft uses a synthetic sandalwood material, but I find that it doesn’t harmonize well with the natural sandalwood in Peace, so the final version will use New Caledonian sandalwood absolute. That’s going to increase the cost, but oh well. It’s a limited edition anyway. I may end up adding some more floral notes, but it remains to be seen what happens when the new mix settles down.

Perfume is, as Carlos suggested, a cologne-type fragrance, the flighty and free-spirited youngest child, representing the top notes. It contains vetiver, atlas cedar, benzoin, a fractional distillation of pine wood, incense, Oregon lavender, myrtle, and grapefruit. So far it’s my favorite of the three. I will definitely be wearing this one during our unusually warm August!

I think the official launch date is supposed to be the first of September, so the trio should be ready by then.

[Images are modified from free clip art ones]

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

FRAGRANT DENDROBIUMS


This summer I’ve had a couple of fragrant surprises from the Dendrobium side of the greenhouse. The first was a little Dendrobium palpebrae that had been quietly and unobtrusively growing in a corner, but suddenly burst out with big pendant sprays of white flowers with bright yellow centers. Best of all, they were strongly fragrant, smelling distinctly “perfumey” in a designer-fragrance sort of way, but in a good way. They had a sharp scent that was a bit like a combination of geranium and patchouli, amber (in the mass-market sense) and lily-of-the-valley. Nice, but not something I would want to reproduce since it’s too similar to many other perfumes.

The second surprise awaited me when I got back from San Francisco. A little Dendrobium moniliforme ‘Kinkaku’ had produced an exuberant bouquet of big white flowers with lime-green throats. Finally, a Dendrobium moniliforme whose flower buds escaped the hungry mouths of the slugs that like to sneak in and eat the Dendrobium and Masdevallia buds!

A couple of years ago I made a perfume based on the fragrance of another Dendrobium moniliforme variety, ‘Osafume’. Those flowers have a delicate anise-like scent, but the ‘Kinkaku’ flowers are totally different. In fact, I smelled them in the greenhouse before I saw them. They have a strong fragrance like rose-scented soap enriched with spices, especially nutmeg. When I smell these flowers, I could swear it’s some sort of fancy lotion. It’s not something I want to mimic, but it’s fun to smell flowers that appear to reproduce typical manmade scents that we think of as smelling "synthetic". It’s also interesting to observe how different cultivars of the same species can have dramatically different fragrances. 

[Photos of Dendrobium palpebrae and the flower of Dendrobium moniliforme 'Kinkaku' are mine] 

WINNERS OF MYSTERY GIVEAWAY


The winners of the mystery giveaway are:

YUKI and LAURIE BROWN

Please contact azarsmith7atgmaildotcom to claim your prizes. Believe me, they’re worth it!

Stay tuned for more giveaways in August!

[Gratuitous photo shows the neighborhood near where I was staying in San Francisco]